Father’s Day

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV – pure, clear and clean as a whistle. Lacks the depth of a Salon but very good nonetheless.

Louis Lequin Batard-Montrachet 1998 – golden, slightly fading and a little short on the finish but still quite glorious. Less profound compared with the 1999.

Opus One 1999 – weak structure, receding fruit and surprisingly low alcohol. All that is left is wood smoke.

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